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Hand
Application
Spray Application
Trouble Shooting Guide
Surface Preparation
All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Sand surface
using fine grit sandpaper such as #180-#220. Water base finishes need a
smoother surface than oil base finishes. Do not use tack cloths when
using water based finish. Tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate
the surface. On certain woods such as oak and ash, pre-wet the wood with a
damp cloth to raise the grain before final sanding. Allow the dampened wood
to dry 30 minutes before the final sanding. This will provide a smoother
final finish.
Temperature and humidity
Water base finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65 F. Cooler
temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden, causing
fish-eyes or craters. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to
apply a water base finish. The surface of the wood must also be warm. If you
turn the heat on when you enter your shop in the morning, the air heats up
quickly but your furniture will still be cold for some time. Check the surface
to see if it is warm. Also, check the temperature of the finish. Warming cold
finish by setting the can next to a heater or setting the container in some hot
water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application.
In hot temperatures (85F – 100F) the finish may dry too fast.
Use EF Extender to open (increase) the dry time. Finishes that dry too fast may
not completely level out before all the water evaporates from the finish. This
can result in a poor appearance.
High humidity can cause the finishes to take longer to dry but
will not harm the final finish.
Maintenance and care
Water base finishes take 7 days before they are ready for daily use. To maintain
the finish clean surface with a damp washcloth and wipe dry. Cleaners such as
Pledge and Murphy’s Oil Soap are not recommended because they leave a
dull residue on the finish. Polishes such as lemon oil or orange oil work well
for routine maintenance.
Restoring an old surface
Top coats may be recoated at any time in the future. Simply wipe down the
surface with mineral spirits to remove any grease or dirt, lightly sand with
#320 or finer, and then apply another coat.
Mixing and Tinting
Mix Gloss and satin together to get a Semi-gloss top coat. Tinting may be
accomplished by adding 10 to 20% EF Stain to an EF Top Coat.
Hardwood Floors
Use EF High Performance Polyurethane.
We recommend the EagleSpray HVLP unit available from Joe
Kastner at 800-966-5223.
Surface Preparation
All surfaces should be clean and free from dirt and oil. Sand
surface using fine grit sandpaper such as #180-#220. Water base finishes need a
smoother surface than oil base finishes. Do not use steel wool. Steel wool can
leave behind tiny particles in the wood that can rust after the finish has been
applied. Do not use tack cloths when using water based finishes! Tack cloths
contain oil and will contaminate the surface.
Soft woods such as Pine and Aspen absorb stain at an uneven
rate and may respond better to staining if the wood bas been presealed. EF
Natural stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform
penetration of the stain. Presealing will cause the final stain to be lighter.
Always test your color on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the EF Natural
stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain color.
Note: With hardwoods such as oak and ash, begin
by pre-wetting the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain. Allow the dampened
wood to dry 30 minutes before the final sanding. This will provide a smoother
final finish.
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Spraying EF PolyAcrylic
EF PolyAcrylic is ready to spray from the container. Thinning
is not necessary. However, in hot climates, EF Extender can be used with the EF
PolyAcrylic to extend the open time.
EF PolyAcrylic can be sprayed with HVLP systems or
conventional sprayers. If you are using a sprayer that has been used for oil
base or lacquers, clean the unit thoroughly and rinse with warm water before
using. Apply a thin coat first that will dry and harden faster. Sand this first
coat down to a smooth base on which to build your finish coats. With water base
finishes it is better to spray 2 thin coats rather than 1 heavy coat.
Practice makes perfect! If you have never sprayed finishes
before, take a large piece of cardboard and practice your technique first. Spray
water on the cardboard to learn how the gun works. Check your fluid settings and
adjust the controls to get comfortable with the spray angles and to develop your
technique.
Keep your gun at a 90* angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large
flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6 to 8’ wide. Over lap each pass 25% to
conceal lines. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" to reduce
overspray. Break your work into sections such as dresser top or drawer fronts.
Spraying too large of an area can result in a textured grainy surface. A
correctly sprayed finish should appear even and glossy. It is important to spray
enough material to allow proper flow and leveling of the finish. If you have not
obtained a good finish check one of the following factors:
Trouble Shooting Guide for Spraying
EF Water Base Finishes
1. Rough, dry surface. This is called dry spray. You may have
sprayed too lightly. Resand the finish with #320 paper and apply a heavier coat.
Keep your gun at 6-8" from the surface.
2. Dimples in the finish. This is called orange peel, caused
by spraying in temperatures that are too cool. Cooler temperatures will
adversely affect how the finish will level and harden. Water base finishes must
be applied at temperatures above 65 F. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it
is too cold to apply a water base finish. The surface of the wood must also be
warm. If you turn the heat on when you enter your shop in the morning, the air
heats up quickly but your furniture will still be cold for some time. Check the
surface to see if it is warm. Also, check the temperature of the finish. Warming
cold finish by setting the can next to a heater or setting the container in some
hot water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application.
Note: Larger dimples are called "fish-eyes" or "craters". Cool
temperatures can cause these, but the more likely source is contamination of the
finish with either wax or silicone.
3. Blush. Blush is the term for a cloudy, milky appearance in
the finish, has two causes. The most common reason is incompatible stain. For
example, using a water base top coat over a heavy oil base stain. When the top
coat is applied, the oil in the stain seeps up through the finish and reacts
with the acrylic causing a chemical blush. To prevent this, use a quick drying
water based stain. If you choose to use oil base stain, seal the stain with a
coat of shellac or lacquer sealer. This will provide a barrier between the oil
and the acrylic. Proper drying time between the oil stain and finish coats is
essential!
The other cause for blushing is high humidity. Spraying water
base finish in humidities of over 75% may cause blushing because moisture
becomes trapped beneath the finish and cannot evaporate. You can prevent this
condition by increasing air movement in the finishing area with a fan. All water
needs to evaporate is sufficient air movement. You can also improve drying
conditions by increasing the temperature in the drying area.
4. Surface is
not leveling out. In hot temperatures (85F – 100F) the finish may dry too fast.
Use EF Extender to open (increase) the dry time. Finishes that dry too
fast may not completely level out before all the water evaporates from the
finish.
Note: High humidity can cause the finishes to take longer to
dry but will not harm the final finish.
EF Stains and Top Coats are perfect for children’s toys and
furniture All EF Stains and EF Top Coats are non-toxic after drying!
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